Erotic architecture of kalasi Temple

Erotic architecture, a special and common feature in Indian ancient temples, is rare in temples in Malnad region of Karnataka. While it is found hidden in the folds of walls of Ikkeri and Keladi to some extent, it is very much clearly seen only in Neelakanteshwara temple at Kalasi village, a lesser known tourist spot in Shimoga district, in Karnataka.

One can see strips of erotic arts that appear on both side walls of the entrance of this temple. These pinnacles of artistic expression are about ten to twelve statues on either sides, which appear to be graphical instruction manual of the book `Kama Sutra' written by Vatsayana. Constructed during 12th century ( 1218 AD ) when Hoysalas ruled here, this is one of the oldest temples in the region. During this time only the love manual ``Ananga Ranga'' (1172 AD) was written by Kalyanamalla.


When asked as to why did the erotic symbols were carved in temples, the priest of the temples here Gangadhar Krishna Bhat said that it was to save temples from the bad effects of `Dristi'.
But, there are different versions which say reasons for this. It is said that Lord Indra, symbolised by lightning, is a most sexually active god and these erotic statues were designed to save temples and shrines from lightning. A researcher says that during rainy season hundreds of people die due to lighting in Himalayan region but rarely a temple is being hit. The credit for lasting safety of the monuments goes to the carved erotica, he adds.

In one of his works Dhanwantari, author of Ayurveda, says that these erotic scenes were designed to serve as stimulants, to treat people suffering from impotence. It is also said that the reason would be to use these symbols for sex education. But another version says that these sex objects were used to test the restraint of monks and abbots.

In both of these temples Shivalinga is worshipped. While western and non-Hindu scholars rule that Shivalinga is an phallic symbol, the underlying cultural idom of Hindu Dharma considers it to be a metaphor representing the summit of Mount Kailasa from where the sacred Ganga river emanate from the locks of Shiva.

``It is all about metaphors, and how one understands meanings of metaphors'', says scholar Dr Shrinivasan Kalyanaraman, Chennai, in one of his articles on art and erotica.
It is true even about the erotic statues represented in temples also.
They are metaphors.

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Chandragutti beckons trekkers and tourists

Chandragutti was in news at international level two decades ago. Some intellectuals then had tried to convince the people who had been practicing nude worship in the village, which was a custom to pay offerings in this form. But the devotees took it for an obstruction to their worship and had turned violent, which had resulted in a clamour.
And even now people remember the name `Chandragutti’ with nude worship, but very less people know it to be an excellent tourist spot.
Chandragutti of Sorab taluk in Shimoga District, Karnataka, is a beautiful village situated in Sahyadri ranges. It has the famous Renukamba temple. Devotees use to take bath in river Varada, about 3 kms from here, and walk to the temple. It is situated on a hill at the northern side of the village and with a flight of steps to reach it.


First you will get a Mutt belonged to `Naatha pantha’ and then Kalabhairava temple. And at the end of steps is the temple of Goddess Sri Renukamba, where a golden statue of the goddess is worshipped inside a cave.
In front of it is a small temple in which Elu Hede Nagendra (Divine King cobra with seven hoods) and Parashurama, son of Renukamba, is worshipped. And beside the temple is a statue of Matangi.
There is another path for the devotees to get down from the temple, which is without proper steps but gives one an exalting experience to while on this path. On this way there is a temple of Shoolada Beerappa, in which thousands of tridents, which are said to be rose from the earth, are worshipped. Even devotees add to the number with their offerings. Beside this temple situated a pond called `Ammanavara honda’, to which water flows from a bigger pond called `Tavarekere’, situated at a still higher region behind Renukamba temple. And from this water flows in a small canal to agriculture fields. At the beginning of the flight of steps is a sacred well in cradle shape called `Tottila baavi’.
Apart from this, there is an old port, said to be of seven folds, situated amid a dense forest. If you walk for in the forest behind the temple, you will get different entrances which take you to the peak, which is a huge rock mass. From there it is all beautiful scenery of the village, hill ranges, farm lands and ponds. On this huge rock are three wells, two of which contain water even in summer days. There is a stone construction, which is said to be used for storing weapons by the then kings.
The villagers and tourists make picnic here cooking food and staying in night. One can witness delightful sun rises and sun sets from here. This place is a fitting place for trekking.

Route: Chandragutti is 106 kms from Shimoga and is on the way from Sorab to Siddapur. It can be reached from Sorab (18kms), Siddapur (16kms) and from Sirsi (40kms).

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Agumbe: Feel mighty rain, misty mystery

During this time of the year you don’t find sun set in Agumbe, for which it is famous. It is a different world to be in here during rainy season. Once you reach the zone of Agumbe, mist covered on vegetation and habitation welcomes you, and you smile at each other for having reached the place.

Agumbe is one of the highest peaks of the Western Ghats located about 87 kms from Shimoga and about 60 kms from Udupi in Karnataka. Agumbe Ghat, being one of the five paths that pave way to cross the Ghat to reach the Konkan coast, has a path of 18 steep and narrow curves to pass. And falls near Agumbe, like Jogi Gundi, Barkana and Onaki Abbi falls near, add to the magnificence of the region.



During this season, the place covered by precipitation makes it difficult for travelers, but is a beautiful world to see. You can see rain soaked flora that glisten whenever sun shines for a few seconds or otherwise covered by snow that spreads with the blow of wind. Sometimes the mist covers in such a way that it becomes very difficult to drive vehicle. The day remains cloudy and tenebrous dawn to dusk, and night falls making the region awesome.

It is the glory of rain that rules the region. It pours as if it is limitless. Feel the restlessness that grows with the continuing downpour, which gets faster and heavier with time. And after a few minutes, rain is no more. Wind blows spreading the ash-like mist that has the capacity to vanish the woods and make the earth and heaven one. But, it remains for a few seconds and once the wind slows its pace, the surrounding is cleared and is yet again fresh.

Twitter the birds no more and no more is the bright sun. And it begins again to rain fiercely without news! It pours incessantly at once and showering other times. Rarely the sun shines, but it is an exalting experience during this season to have mild sun rays occasionally fall on this land.

It is all the way adventurous but dangerous to travel to Agumbe during monsoon. Agumbe being the highest rainfall receiving place in Karnataka, makes it very difficult to travel. For bike riders, it is very dangerous but gives an exhilarating experience.

The last but most important thing that makes one’s journey to Agumbe satisfying is to have the local cuisine called ``Neeru dose’’ available in Agumbe and Someshwara village. Lusty rain remains to splash, and one needs to face it and surpass it on the way home.

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Manikyadhara mesmerises

Manikyadhara, the name mesmerises, and so does the falls by that name. The fall of crystal white water along a steep rock, near Baba Budangiri in Chikmagalur district, appears to befit its name.
The falls is about a kilometer away from Baba Budangiri and is amid the shola forest. After reaching there, a set of stairs lead down to the bottom of the falls.
The specialty of the falls is that it will not get drained even during summers, and the water remains icy cold. This falls also offers a splendid view of the surrounding natural beauty from this place. Mist covered hills and cool breeze add to the delight of tourists.


Other than this natural significance, Manikyadhara falls also has another dimension of cultural significance, which doubles the visitors to this falls. People believe that one who takes bath in this falls can get cured of many ailments. Both Hindu and Muslim devotees take bath here with this belief. People of all ages, children and women take bath in Manikyadhara, which they consider as sacred.
And there is another belief among these followers, according to which they should throw at this place the clothes they take off after taking bath. Thus, many heaps of worn-out clothes have spread over hills around the falls and have made the place unpleasant. But it could be neglected before the beauty of this spot.
This place has become attractive for one more reason. Many original herbal medicines are available at the shops here. The shop keepers claim that they sell the original herbs, which could heal different diseases. They also guide the tourists on using the herbal medicine.
How to reach: Manikyadhara falls is about one kilometer away from Baba Budangiri, which is 28 kms away from Chikmagalur.

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Twin Temples of Kalasi: Specimen of Hoysala architecture

Keladi and Ikkeri of Sagar taluk in Shimoga district of Karnataka have been very famous as tourist spots. But very less people know about Kalasi, where situated twin temples, a fine specimen of Hoysala architecture, constructed during 12th century.
Said to be constructed by father and son sculptors, Jankana and Dakkana, these temples reveal the artistic beauty of Hoysala architecture. They are constructed using the stone called `Somanatha Shile’, which was available in the village itself.
Both the temples have been built on star-shaped plinth and the roofs are also of star-shape. Both are Shaiva temples- one is Mallikarjuneshwara and the other, Neelakanteshwara temple.
Mallikarjuna temple, the bigger one, is formed of Garbhagriha, Sukanasi, Rangamantapa and Basavamantapa. It has eight circular pillars in the Navaranga, which are carved with pictures of different dance forms and animals. Except Sukanasi, the other frontal part of the temple feature with half walls, this has provided the temple with a unique brightness. This temple has three entrances at three directions.

Neelakanteshwara temple is about 30 feet away from Mallikarjuna temple and has only one entrance. It has a magnificent Gopuram over Garbhagriha where you can see the Hoysala emblem and a fine statue of Bhuvaneshwari. The walls on either side of the main entrance have been carved with statues related to Vatsayana Kamasutra.
This temple was built during 1218 AD, when Baleyanna Pergade ruled this place. He was the Mandalika of Hoysala Second Veeraballala. This region was called as Kundanadu or Kodanadu at that time. After Baleyanna this place was ruled by Beeradevarasa. Later, when Vijayanagara Dynasty was established, Samrat Krishna Devaraya gifted this place to Keladi King Chaudappa Nayaka.
One can see an ancient port in the forest around these temples in Kalasi with wells, ponds and the drainage system of that time.

Route: This place is 8 kms from Sagar taluk in Shimoga district, Karnataka. On the way from Sagar to Sorab in Ulavi road a name board mentioning Kalasi is seen and from there it is only 1 km journey into the village.

Subject of government apathy
Twin temples of 12th century with marvelous Hoysala architecture have been a subject of government apathy. Kalasi is as near as 8 kms from Sagar town, but, unlike Keladi and Ikkeri, these temples are known to less people.
The tourism department has done less to develop this place as a tourist spot. Since 6 months these temples are without electric facility. Bats have made them their abode and their excreta fallen on valuable pillars and valuable tombs has been destroying them.
The priest of the temple Gangadhar Krishna Bhat says that walls and pillars were made chemical wash due to which they have lost their colour and lustre. ``Occasional visitors to the temple also have opined the same’’, he adds.
Concerned department is needed to provide facilities and popularize this temple as a tourist spot.

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Kundardri Hill: A Trekkers' Heaven

Everything in Nature is full of mystery and creates awe in the beholder's heart. The very awe makes one adventurous, attracting to adventurous places. The awesome Kundadri Hill is one such place where you find a blend beauty and mystery of nature.
A trekkers' favourite spot Kundadri is about 12km from Thirthahalli in Shimoga district. This huge monolithic rock surrounded by lush green provides a picturesque scene of both sun rise and sun set. At the hill top is a Jain temple which is said to be of 17th century has made the hill a Jain pilgrim centre. Jain pilgrims visit the place during Makara Sankranthi. Kundadri itself is named after a Jain Monk Kundakundacharya. There are two ponds on the hill in which water is available for the whole year and you can see lotus flowers in them.

It is better to reach the hill before the sun rise and get into the top. From there you see blue hills at the horizon, mist raising from there and spreading out. Sun rises giving colours to the mist, and the sun appears to be a golden plate. The first rays of the morning sun fall on the feet of Parshwanatha statue situated on the hill.
Varahi Dam backwater is visible from the top, and forest and plantations around fascinate tourists. Once you reach the Kundadri circle, you have tar road to reach the hill top, but it is a mesmerising experience if you walk along making your own short cut route.
ALSO VISIT: There are many tourist spots in Thirthahalli taluk. Agumbe, Abbey falls, Kuppalli, the birth place of Kuvempu, Ambuthirtha, the birth place of River Sharavathi, Chibbalugudda and Kavaledurga.
ROUTE: Kundadri is situated between Thirthahalli and Agumbe in Shimoga-Udupi road. After travelling for about 4 kms from the main road you will get the Kundadri circle from where to climb the hill.

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Gudavi Sanctuary awaits winged guests

Birds have not arrived, but are on their way.
The mansoon has stepped into the land and Gudavi bird sanctuary is waiting for the winged guests and tourists.
Visit this hidden village of Sorab taluk which is 100 kms away from Shimoga in Karnataka, and is 15 kms from Sorab. Soon the travellers from distant land would arrive and by July, you can see birds of different feathers on sitting trees and bushes like flying flowers.
Covered by dense moist deciduous forest and a large water tank, Gudavi has been a safe place for breeding for the migratory birds and attracting about 200 different bird species every year. Most of these birds arrive from Siberia (part of Russia in the Asian Content), which is one of the coldest parts of the world and central Asia.
The birds migrate to here include White Ibis, Little Egret, Snake bird, Spoon bill, Little Cormorant, Grey Heron, Paddy Bird, Black necked Stark, Night Heron, Little Grebe, Pintail, Common Teal, Indian Mooren, Coot and Jacanas.
Normally birds migrate to here during the month of June with the beginning of mansoon. But the ideal time for tourists is August to December. Birds can be seen upto February also. The sanctuary is open to visitors from morning at 6 am to 6 pm.

The Tourism Department and the Forest Department have done better work in providing better facility for the tourists in the sanctuary. Fenced narrow foot paths allow you to walk and see birds on different trees. cottages and benchs on the sides have made the sanctuary a picnic spot also. You can see boards giving details of birds with pictures.
There are totally five watch towers which provide a near and dear look of birds. The only and the major limitation is a better transport facility. The road needs development and more bus services are needed to facilitate tourists.
For all these things this sanctuary give you, it expects you to maintain cleanliness and silence. Other than helping birds, your silence can help yourself to be one with the sanctuary and the visitors from the distant land, feeling their presence, their twittering and chirping sounds.

ALSO VISIT: If you travel on Shikaripur-Sorab you can also visit Akka Mahadevi temple at Udugani, Kedareshwara temple at Balligavi and Chandragutti Renukamba temple.

ROUTE: Gudavi is 115 kms away from Shimoga in Shikaripur-Sorab road and 42 kms from Sagar. Bus facility from Sorab to Gudavi is less and it is better to have your own vehicle facility.

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